As I’ve mentioned previously on this website, I’ve been organizing a minimal home recording studio for Lee Safar for the album I am currently producing for her. In order to save money and also get the best possible sound we can, I’ve decided to DIY a lot of the recording equipment.
Jeff Steiger, owner of the ClassicAPI company was amazingly friendly with all of the questions I had for him when deciding to purchase this kit. After putting in the order, about a week later, the box arrived:
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Everything was beautifully packed, and the initial reaction was “wow, this is one seriously professional piece of kit….”.
Here you can see the silk-screened front panel ( which was shipped in the wrapping it’s sitting on ):
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Here is a glimpse of the input transformer, output attenuator and input gain control and associated mounting hardware:
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These are the main front panel switches for Mute, Phase reverse and Pad:
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Here is the wrapping for the main mounting frame:
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The gorgeous input transformer:
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A close up of the switches including the 48V Phantom power switch:
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Here is the top and bottom of the PCB that comes with the kit:
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Here is the whole lot on the table:
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The first thing I did was set up the workspace ( yes, I am using a Country Road magazine as a work mat – that’s how I roll – I’m not quite as well setup as when I was working at talsit‘s house! ):
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Then I put in the resistors:
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Followed by the diodes:
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Then the latching push switches:
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Then the blue Murata ceramic capacitors:
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Then the large capacitors, radial and standard electrolytic went in. The Mill-Max sockets also went in at this stage. You’ll notice the botch job of the large 470uF capacitor with it’s horrible soldering. A note to those building this kit – use flux! I didn’t and it made soldering to the ground pads exceptionally difficult due to the massive thermal inertia of the exceptionally thick PCB. I bought some flux the next day and used it to fix up that area ( which you will see in later photos ):
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The input transformer went in next:
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Then the output transformer ( also note the cleaner solder joint on the large axial 470uF capacitor that I cleaned up by application of flux and re-soldering ):
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You can see the output attenuator now after being added:
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Next the 48V Phantom power switch went in, and I started to assemble everything into the main frame, along with the front panel:
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Next the knobs went on to the potentiometers:
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And that was the end of the basic ClassicAPI VP26 build. A preamp isn’t much without an amplifier now is it? So the next part was building the gar2520 Discrete Operational Amplifier (DOA) – which performs the actual amplification task. It’s a compatible physical layout to the original API 2520 units ( which can also be used in this kit as DOA’s ).
The first part of the gar2520 build is the pins for insertion into the Mill-Max sockets of the main VP26 board:
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Next go in some resistors and capacitors:
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Then the diodes:
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Next are the main transistors:
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Now we add some more resistors and capacitors:
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And more:
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And more:
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And more:
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And more:
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And more:
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And then, finally, the last parts go in to finish off the gar2520 DOA:
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Now the DOA can be inserted into the main board:
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And now it’s time for some modelling shots of the finished ( but untested ) product….
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And now for some close-ups:
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And there you have it. Next up, the Neve-style Sound Skulptor MP73 build. Stay-tuned for that, and the testing of this pre.